Travel Guide to Dalarna (Sweden)

Dalarna, the cultural heart of Sweden, is the place to experience the quintessential Swedish way of life. Here you can see the Swedish culture in its most popular form: red-painted houses by sparkling lakes in the evening sunlight, where people in brightly colored folk costumes dance in celebration of Midsummer.

Its varied terrain stretches from vast forest to towering mountain and mirror-like lake. Lake Siljan dominates the region. It is one of Sweden’s most beautiful and largest lakes. It was created by a meteorite millions of year ago.

Outdoor enthusiasts can find plenty to do throughout the year. In the summer the region is perfect for kayaking, cycling and hiking. In winter, Dalarna is transformed into a snowy wonderland that’s perfect for skiing or snowboarding. Cross-country ski and dog sledding, both peaceful activities to explore the frosty terrain, are also popular.

Mora

Mora is about three and a quarter hours away from Stockholm by train, located on the shores Lake Siljan.  The town is known for two things: Vasaloppet, and the artist Anders Zorn.

The Vasaloppet is the world’s oldest and longest cross-country ski race, stretching 90kms from Sälen to Mora. It is held annually in March and attracts thousands skiers from all over the world. The race celebrates the legendary journey taken by Swedish king Gustav Vasa to escape from Danish soldiers.

Anders Zorn was one of Sweden’s most famous painters. He lived here until his death in 1942. His former home, Zorngården, a well-preserved masterpiece of Swedish architecture, offers a glimpse into the life of the famous artist. The museum, located next door, has an impressive collection of Zorn’s works. These include portraits, landscapes and etchings which beautifully capture rural life in Sweden.

Fulufjället National Park

Two hours further north west, close to the border with Norway, is Fulufjället National Park, established in 2002.  This untouched wilderness, covering approximately 385 square kilometres gets its name from the 1,044m Fulufjället Mountain. The landscape is a mix between barren tundra and thick boreal forests. Deep river valleys are also present.

I meet Tommy Lönnebacke at the Naturum visitor centre who’s going to lead me to Rösjöstugorna, my bed for the night. The road is not there and it’s quite a steep climb up to the vast plateau that was once an ancient mountain range. This is the main feature, a vast expanse bog and tundra.

My accommodation looms into view – simple cabins with bunks where you have to wash in the lake after a rudimentary sauna. Tommy starts cooking dinner quickly before the sun sets. Luckily, there is a roaring campfire inside.  It’s a delicious mix of mouse and bear, cooked in a huge wok outside. It’s best to wash it down by drinking his homemade berry-firewater for a good night of sleep.

The next morning, we began a hike along the shores of Lake Louise. Old Tjikko a 9,560-year Norway spruce is the first stop. It may not be much to look at but it is considered the oldest known living tree. The tree has survived centuries of harsh weather. Carbon dating of roots that have sprouted continuously new trunks for millennia proves its age.

From here we drop down off the plateau and the Njupeskär Waterfall comes into view. This is Sweden’s tallest waterfall, cascading from the rugged cliff face, fed by a lake above.  The trail takes you to an observation platform located at the base of these falls. Here, you can see the power of nature in person. In winter Njupeskär transforms into a massive icefall, attracting adventurous ice climbers from all across Europe.

Grövelsjön

Another hour further north, Grövelsjön is a part of the larger Gränslandet nature reserve, a vast wilderness area shared between Sweden and Norway spanning over 2000 square kilometres. I arrive at the bottom of Lake Grövelsjön,framed by rolling hills, deep valleys, and lofty peaks.

From the lake, the hike to Silverfallet starts by crossing the suspension bridge over the Grövlån River, and then continuing through mountain forest. The trail then climbs up, following a rushing stream to alpine meadows.

As we cross the border into Norway, we are rewarded with stunning views of the lake. The small Silverfallet waterfall makes a perfect spot for a picnic at the Olån shelter.  As I make my descent, I gorge myself on bilberries and cloudsberries.

Idre Fjäll

The ski resort of Idre Fjäll was founded 60 years ago and has evolved into a centre for year round experiences. In winter it offers some of the best skiing in Sweden with over 40kms of groomed ski slopes, catering to all levels—from complete beginners to seasoned pros.

Summer in Idre Fjäll is all about getting close to nature. The region is renowned for its hiking trails, with one of the most iconic hikes being the trek up Städjan, a mountain known for its distinctive shape and breath-taking 360-degree views.

I’ve done enough hiking, now it’s my turn to get on the water. 30 minutes south is the Sörälven river and we climb into kayaks and paddle through the forest to a wilderness camp on a small island. The guide teaches us how to make a fire from the kindling we collect, and gives us the ingredients for our lunch.

Before we start cooking, we need to carve a spatula and a handle for our fry pan. This bushman’s pancake is roasted on the fire by mixing flour with water. This pancake may not sound very exciting, but it tastes great with the lingonberries and cheese topping.